Sightseeing Sunday - Mosque of Ahmed Ibn Tulun

Mosque of Ahmed Ibn Tulun 876-879 AD / 263-265 AH 

One of the largest and most impressive mosques in Cairo also happens to be its oldest, at least the oldest in its original form (the mosque of 'Amr ibn al-As is older by about 200 years, but has been modified significantly over the centuries). 

An aerial of the Mosque of Ahmed Ibn Tulun (archnet.org)

In order to understand the architectural and historical significance of Ibn Tulun's mosque, you have to first see how it fits into the bigger picture of the period. When Ibn Tulun came to Egypt in 868, the 'Abbasid dynasty reigned in Baghdad. The 'Abbasids, (750–1258 AD /1261–1517 AH), based their legitimacy on descent from the Prophet through his uncle 'Abbas. Their rule was marked by decadence and a rise in court culture, influenced greatly by their incorporation of Persian traditions, and has often been described as the "Golden Age" or the classical period. 

Riots in Baghdad in 836, agitated by soldiers, caused the caliph al-Mu'atassim to move the court out of Baghdad and to found a new city, Samarra. Greatly expanded by the caliph Mutawakkil; he built the Great Samarra Mosque, which served as a centerpiece and an inspiration to Ibn Tulun, as we shall see.  Financial troubles and anarchy in Samarra following the death of Mutawakkil, resulted in his successor, al-Mu’tazz, granting the revenues of the provinces to pay the Turkish leaders of his armies. In 868, al-Mu’tazz granted Egypt to Bayikbak, who appointed Ahmed Ibn Tulun, his stepson, to govern the province and oversee the collection and delivery of revenue. When Ibn Tulun arrived in Egypt, conflict arose with the pre-existing financial administrator, Ibn al-Mudabbir. Trouble in Syria and Palestine allowed Ibn Tulun to raise his own revenue and army and march at the service of the caliph. As a result, al-Mudabbir was marginalized and Ibn Tulun became powerful in a way unprecedented for a provincial governor. While still pledging allegiance to the caliph in Baghdad, he was given the ability to appoint a successor as governor, his son. Making the governorship both quasi-independent and hereditary. The dynasty is often referred to as the Tulunids.

Their capital city, ‘Abbasid in style, was modeled after Samarra and named al-Qata’I (the Quarters). It was located in what is now the Sayyeda Zeinab neighborhood of Cairo and what was then just north-east of the original Arab settlement Fustat. The city was for the court; the general public continued to live in Fustat; and at the center of the city Ibn Tulun built his mosque.

When you enter the mosque, or see it from above (I've had this privilege only twice when landing at Cairo airport from the south), the first thing that strikes you is its size. Covering six and a half acres, the mosque was built large enough that Ibn Tulun's entire army could fit inside for Friday prayers. Its layout being modeled on that of the Great Mosque of Mutawakkil in Samara, even the building technique and style was inspired by its 'Abbasid counterpart. 

In entering the mosque from the street, you first come into the ziyada or addition (literally extra). This overflow area served to separate the mosque from the street and prevent market stalls from being attached to the mosque directly. 

The ziyada; the street entrances are to the right; the mosque entrances are on the left (archnet.org)

Once you actually enter the mosque, the rows and rows of columns surrounding the center courtyard are impressive. They were made using stamped, wet plaster; the same technique as used in Samarra.

Notice the stamped plaster around the archways.

Another closer view of the archways. (archnet.org)

Another important feature of any mosque, and of particular interest in Ibn Tulun, is the mihrab. This indentation on the qibla (the direction of Mecca) wall demarcates the actual direction towards which worshipers are to direct their prayers. The mihrab of Ibn Tulun is particularly interesting because it is mostly in its original form, and its hood contains wood that dates to the mosque's construction. Legend has it that this wood was from Noah's Ark. Next to the mihrab is the minbar which is the "pulpit" of the mosque. 

The mihrab. Notice the wood in the hood (the top part of the arch-like enclave).  (archnet.org)

The minbar, or pulpit, with the mihrab along the left side of the picture. (archnet.org)

 The courtyard of the mosque is one of its most impressive features. Built so large as to hold the Ibn Tulun's entire military entourage, the courtyard's proportions are staggering. In its center is a domed structure used for ablution before prayer. It is not original; it was constructed and parts of the minaret were reconstructed, following earthquake damage, by Sultan Lagan in the Mamluk period. The ablution space is particularly Mamluk in style. It features a large dome, red and white striping on its maqarnas (stalactite-looking carvings) on the pendentives (joints) of the dome. The minaret, too, features much reconstruction. Originally a complete spiral, inspired by the minaret of the Great Mosque of Mutawakkil in Samarra, the base is now square as a result of Sultan Lagan's attempts to sure up its foundation. Also, the mubakhara top is also a later addition; probably an attempt by Sultan Lagan to finish the minaret in an earlier style. Unfortunately, he was off by a century; the mubakhara was a hallmark of the Fatimids a century later.  

The ablution fountain, courtyard and minaret.

Close-up of the minaret.

A climb to the top of the minaret of Ibn Tulun gives you one of the most rewarding sights in Cairo: a 360 degree view of the city, with prominent views of the Citadel. Between its views and its history, the Mosque of Ahmed ibn Tulun is a must see in a visit to Cairo and an essential mosque to the story of the city. 

Sources: 

Kennedy, Hugh. The Prophet and the Age of the Caliphates. Great Britain: Pearson Longman, 2004. 

------. When Baghdad Ruled the Muslim World, Cambridge: Da Capo Press 2006.

Williams, Caroline. Islamic Monuments of Cairo: The Practical Guide. Cairo: AUC Press, 2008.

 

Outside Cairo - Saqqara

I bet that if we played the word association game, and I said "Egypt" most responses would be: "camels" or "pyramids"... maybe very recently "revolution". So, where else could we start with Egypt's ancient history than with pyramids? I'm not, however, going to begin in Giza. Sure, they're impressive... but to my liking the more impressive and definitely more historically significant pyramids are a bit further down the road in Saqqara. And that's where we'll start our ancient Egypt tour.

Before we get too far into our discussion of the pyramids in Saqqara, we need to take a few steps back and look at the significance of the surrounding area. For the early period of ancient Egyptian civilization, Egypt was divided into two kingdoms: Upper (southern Egypt) and Lower (northern Egypt). The names are opposites of their compass directions because they were named according to the flow of the Nile. Without the use of a compass, what is really up or down anyway? In about 3100 BC, the pharaoh Menes (Narmer) succeeded in unifying the two kingdoms. After doing so, he founded a new capital at the start of the river delta named Memphis. This area was slightly east of present day Saqqara and just west of the modern city of Helwan. 

As the capital of ancient Egypt for millennia, the city was renowned for its beauty. From the Persians to the Greeks, the entire ancient world was talking about Memphis; it was a center of learning and civilization in a rapidly changing world. Although it was replaced in the New Kingdom era by Thebes (modern Luxor) as the capital of the pharaohnic state, it continued to serve as a major city in the ancient world and its beauty was unrivaled. It wasn't until the Roman founding of Babylon (Old Cairo) that Memphis was given a run for its money. And finally, in the 7th century AD with the arrival of the Arabs, Memphis's almost 4,000 year life faded. Now, it is barely more than a ruin field, but its existence has given humanity some of our greatest and most important monuments... and that's where we begin our discussion of Saqqara. 

Being a capital city and having a lifespan of almost 4,000 years, Memphis generated a need for, among other things, a massive cemetery. Stretching from Dashur (we'll eventually explore this amazing pyramid sight) to Giza, Saqqara was at the center of Memphis's necropolis. Some would argue this area is the largest cemetery in the world. Archaeologists are continually being amazed by its size and historical yields. And there have been a few novelties; tombs filled with thousands of mummified cats have been found in this area. So why with so many tombs in the area, is it Saqqara that on which we're focused?


Saqqara is important for several reasons, most of them historical firsts. The most significant of all, is that Saqqara represents two major shifts in architecture: one globally and one locally. Globally, Saqqara's Step Pyramid of Djoser (also Zoser), built in 2650 BC, represents the first major cut-stone building in the world. Locally, it is the first pyramid in Egypt; designed by Imhotep, later deified and then featured in the movie the Mummy, the Step Pyramid ignited a building trend that reached its zenith in the magnificent Great Pyramid of Khufu in Giza.

When you approach the complex, you first encounter an entrance to the Great South Court. This entrance is one of the few portions that remain of the original walls that encircled the funerary complex. They featured falls doors and fake hinges to trick the spirits as they entered and exited. 

Entrance to the Great South Hall

Detail of the walls surrounding the entrance. They reach 10 meters in height.

After walking through the entranceway and an impressive columned inclosure, you come into the Great South Court which gives visitors their first clear view of the Step Pyramid. Continuing to the end of the enclosure, a fascinating row of cobra heads adorns the top of a wall. The cobra was a symbol of the ancient Egyptian god of destruction and protection for the pharoah, Wadjet.

The Step Pyramid undergoing continuing restoration work.

Looking at the cobras along the wall of the enclosure, the expanse of sand and openness before the Step Pyramid is the Great South Court.

The ruins once held statues representing the gods of Upper and Lower Egypt. Placed along the eastern side of the enclosure, they were located inside the Jubilee Court and were positioned to watch over the Pharaoh as he conducted rituals marking is jubilee.

Another impressive sight within the Saqqara funerary field is the causeway of Unas. Looking through the pillars at the end of the causeway is the Pyriamid of Unas, the last pharaoh of the fifth dynasty.  Built 300 years after the step pyramid (2375-2345 AD), little remains of the pyramid. The 750 meter causeway, leading to the pyramid, was once covered and decorated; a famous frieze which depicts people starving was taken to the Louvre.

In the area surrounding the causeway and just south of the Step Pyramid is a large area filled with royal tombs; the hieroglyphics of which are still clearly visible.

Royal tombs along the causeway.

The central piece, called a cartouche (the nameplate of the pharaoh), featuring a rabbit is the name of the pharaoh Unas.

More friezes and hieroglyphics inside the royal tombs.

One last view of the Step Pyramid of Saqqara. An impressive and inspiring monument.

Book Review - In Praise of Books

It's been just over eight months since my last post on account of a busy and fruitful first year of graduate studies. With summer vacation beginning soon, I hope to continue posting and sharing my love of Egyptian history and culture; and, hopefully, not stop posting when school resumes in the fall.

For my first post after this long hiatus, I'm starting with a book review of an important book written by an author from whom I've learned a great deal this past year: Nelly Hanna.