Anthony of Arabian Studies: Outside Cairo

I bet that if we played the word association game, and I said "Egypt" most responses would be: "camels" or "pyramids"... maybe very recently "revolution". So, where else could we start with Egypt's ancient history than with pyramids? I'm not, however, going to begin in Giza. Sure, they're impressive... but to my liking the more impressive and definitely more historically significant pyramids are a bit further down the road in Saqqara. And that's where we'll start our ancient Egypt tour.

Before we get too far into our discussion of the pyramids in Saqqara, we need to take a few steps back and look at the significance of the surrounding area. For the early period of ancient Egyptian civilization, Egypt was divided into two kingdoms: Upper (southern Egypt) and Lower (northern Egypt). The names are opposites of their compass directions because they were named according to the flow of the Nile. Without the use of a compass, what is really up or down anyway? In about 3100 BC, the pharaoh Menes (Narmer) succeeded in unifying the two kingdoms. After doing so, he founded a new capital at the start of the river delta named Memphis. This area was slightly east of present day Saqqara and just west of the modern city of Helwan.

As the capital of ancient Egypt for millennia, the city was renowned for its beauty. From the Persians to the Greeks, the entire ancient world was talking about Memphis; it was a center of learning and civilization in a rapidly changing world. Although it was replaced in the New Kingdom era by Thebes (modern Luxor) as the capital of the pharaohnic state, it continued to serve as a major city in the ancient world and its beauty was unrivaled. It wasn't until the Roman founding of Babylon (Old Cairo) that Memphis was given a run for its money. And finally, in the 7th century AD with the arrival of the Arabs, Memphis's almost 4,000 year life faded. Now, it is barely more than a ruin field, but its existence has given humanity some of our greatest and most important monuments... and that's where we begin our discussion of Saqqara.

Being a capital city and having a lifespan of almost 4,000 years, Memphis generated a need for, among other things, a massive cemetery. Stretching from Dashur (we'll eventually explore this amazing pyramid sight) to Giza, Saqqara was at the center of Memphis's necropolis. Some would argue this area is the largest cemetery in the world. Archaeologists are continually being amazed by its size and historical yields. And there have been a few novelties; tombs filled with thousands of mummified cats have been found in this area. So why with so many tombs in the area, is it Saqqara that on which we're focused?

Saqqara is important for several reasons, most of them historical firsts. The most significant of all, is that Saqqara represents two major shifts in architecture: one globally and one locally. Globally, Saqqara's Step Pyramid of Djoser (also Zoser), built in 2650 BC, represents the first major cut-stone building in the world. Locally, it is the first pyramid in Egypt; designed by Imhotep, later deified and then featured in the movie the Mummy, the Step Pyramid ignited a building trend that reached its zenith in the magnificent Great Pyramid of Khufu in Giza.

When you approach the complex, you first encounter an entrance to the Great South Court. This entrance is one of the few portions that remain of the original walls that encircled the funerary complex. They featured falls doors and fake hinges to trick the spirits as they entered and exited.

Entrance to the Great South Hall

Detail of the walls surrounding the entrance. They reach 10 meters in height.

After walking through the entranceway and an impressive columned inclosure, you come into the Great South Court which gives visitors their first clear view of the Step Pyramid. Continuing to the end of the enclosure, a fascinating row of cobra heads adorns the top of a wall. The cobra was a symbol of the ancient Egyptian god of destruction and protection for the pharoah, Wadjet.

The Step Pyramid undergoing continuing restoration work.

Looking at the cobras along the wall of the enclosure, the expanse of sand and openness before the Step Pyramid is the Great South Court.

The ruins once held statues representing the gods of Upper and Lower Egypt. Placed along the eastern side of the enclosure, they were located inside the Jubilee Court and were positioned to watch over the Pharaoh as he conducted rituals marking is jubilee.

Another impressive sight within the Saqqara funerary field is the causeway of Unas. Looking through the pillars at the end of the causeway is the Pyriamid of Unas, the last pharaoh of the fifth dynasty. Built 300 years after the step pyramid (2375-2345 AD), little remains of the pyramid. The 750 meter causeway, leading to the pyramid, was once covered and decorated; a famous frieze which depicts people starving was taken to the Louvre.

In the area surrounding the causeway and just south of the Step Pyramid is a large area filled with royal tombs; the hieroglyphics of which are still clearly visible.